Mountain Notes
Life Between
Two Winters
On moving with snow — and what that movement asks of a person, a team, and a place.
Before every departure, I do the same thing: I run the checklist one more time.
Not the glamorous kind — the kind that lives in a shared doc, updated in airports and late-night kitchens. Flights. Transfer windows. Guest gear status. Backup routes if a pass closes. Weather links. Local contacts. And then the last line, the one I always pause on because it holds the truth of what comes next.
Assume the plan will change. Make sure we're ready to change with it.
If you ski, you already understand why any of this matters. We chase winter because it gives us something rare: a clean kind of attention. A day where the world narrows to weather, snow texture, and the feeling of moving through terrain with your whole body awake. People read ski stories because skiing isn't only a sport — it's a way of being. A seasonal rhythm. For some of us, a compass.
That's the handoff. Not on a summit. Not in a powder photo. The handoff happens in the moments where winter becomes a moving target and you commit anyway — because the work, and the life, are built around that commitment.
Hokkaido, Japan
In Hokkaido, winter can feel quiet in a way that teaches you something. Snow mutes the world. People move with restraint, like the day belongs to everyone equally. After skiing, you sit down for ramen still in your base layers, steam on your face, and you feel how the culture holds shared space — how much is communicated without being announced. The rules aren't the story. The story is the care underneath them.
The AndesA few weeks later, the Andes are the other hemisphere's answer: a different winter, a different volume. In North America or Europe, a ski day can feel like a promise — roads plowed, information centralized, a system built to deliver a predictable experience. In the Andes, winter is less managed and more negotiated. A road opens, then closes. Wind reroutes the day. The snow line shifts overnight. The best plan you can make is the one that leaves room for reality.
Richard Feldman skiing Casablanca Volcano in Chile's Lake District. Photographed by Agustín Anguita.
This is where my perspective sits. I run Esnativa, a local ski operation building the logistics, pacing, and behind-the-scenes systems that let a small group have a day that feels seamless even when the mountain refuses to cooperate.
Most visitors imagine the work as technical. But when you're operating trips between hemispheres — between cultures, expectations, currencies, weather systems — the job becomes broader. It's operations. It's hospitality. It's expectation management. It's translation: explaining how a place works without flattening it into a product.
Because the visitor arrives carrying assumptions, whether they realize it or not. That the day will go as scheduled. That the conditions will match the brochure version of winter. That if they're strong skiers and they've paid good money, the mountain will meet them halfway.
And then the Andes do what the Andes do.
So the job becomes: keep the experience true without turning it into spectacle. Keep the group safe without turning safety into a lecture. Keep the local rhythm intact without making visitors feel like outsiders. It's subtle work — often invisible when it's done well.
The Esnativa crew before a guiding day. Photo: Antar Machado
Guest ascending the Osorno Volcano. Photo: Agustín Anguita
Preparing the car mid-transfer. Photo: Jus Medic
Dinner time in the lodge, Farellones. Photo: Jus Medic
"A dozen moving parts have to hit their cues. You're constantly setting the stage for the best version of the day — knowing the script will change mid-act."
A storm pins you down. A pass closes. A partner in the chain is delayed. A guest's boots don't fit the way they thought they did. The work is to absorb those surprises without letting them become the group's anxiety — then reshape the day so it still feels like why they came.
Sometimes that looks like changing regions, changing objectives, changing tempo. And sometimes it looks like the simplest thing: making coffee, pouring mate, giving the day a new shape that still feels meaningful.
Martin Oliger skiing in the woods, Bariloche. Photographed by Pato Diaz.
Further south, the rhythm changes again. The volcano regions and Patagonia hold a different kind of winter: often slower, more human-scale, less polished, more relational. Some of the most vivid moments aren't the big lines. They're the ones between them — sharing a meal in a local home, the quiet generosity of someone welcoming you into their world, the way a landscape teaches you to slow down and pay attention.
And then Patagonia pushes the idea even further. There are days when skiing becomes something older than "ski tourism" — horseback approaches into snow, gaucho rhythms, the mate circle forming naturally. You feel how much the day depends on people whose names won't appear in any caption: drivers, hosts, cooks, patrollers, locals who carry the season while visitors come to borrow it.
Gauchos preparing for a horse ride ski tour. Photo: Agustín Anguita
Guests prepare for a horse ride and ski adventure. Photo: Agustín Anguita
This is where "Life Between Two Winters" stops being a tagline and starts being a lived pattern.
Because moving with snow reshapes your sense of time. Your calendar is written in storms. Your work is arranged around narrow windows of winter. You get good at travel and transition. You learn to build plans that can flex without breaking.
And right before the next flight, I run "Check No. 10" one more time:
Assume the plan will change.
Be ready to change with it.
And make it feel like the best day anyway.
Niki Salencon skiing the Osorno Volcano over the Pacific Ocean. Photographed by Agustín Anguita.
Agustín "Agus" Anguita
Founder & Operations DirectorTrained as an architect in Santiago, Agus grew up skiing and developed an early connection to the mountains. He transitioned into ski operations after meeting Nicolas Salencon on ski film projects in Patagonia, building experience through years of work in remote environments including Alaska. Today he designs and directs complex winter operations across South America through Esnativa.
Nicolas "Niki" Salencon
Professional Skier & Mountain GuideThe only Argentine skier to have reached the podium on the Freeride World Tour, Niki also guides seasonally in France. His career spans competition, filming, and guiding worldwide. At Esnativa, he brings deep mountain expertise and technical leadership shaped by years in big mountain skiing.
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