Two Weeks Skiing Chile: Volcanoes, Santiago and Penitentes

Guest Stories · Chile

Volcanoes · Santiago · Penitentes 7 min read Written by Jon Brizuela, Esnativa guest

The Trip in Short

Jon spent two weeks skiing Chile at the end of September: one week ski touring the volcanoes of the Araucanía region (Lonquimay, Sollipulli, Quetrupillán and Villarrica) on our Iconic Volcanoes trip, then a private guided week near Santiago and in Las Cuevas and Penitentes, across the border in Argentina. Weather closed one volcano, the guides changed the plan, and he skied hard until his last day.

This is his story, in his own words, translated from Spanish.

Part 01

The trip at a glance

Part	Where	What he skied
Week 1, group trip	Malalcahuello and Pucón, Araucanía	Lonquimay from Corralco, Sollipulli, Quetrupillán and Villarrica, plus hot springs on a storm day
Week 2, private guiding	Farellones, above Santiago	Three guided days at La Parva, El Colorado and Valle Nevado, and a touring day on Cerro La Parva
Last four days	Las Cuevas and Penitentes, on the Argentine side of the border near Mendoza	Ski touring, a day of cat skiing and long freeride descents

Part 02

How it started: a reel on a Saturday morning

It happened on a Saturday morning in August. I was in bed scrolling through Instagram reels when the algorithm showed me images that stopped me cold. My mind flew to snow-covered volcanoes I had never heard of. There was no doubt: my next trip had to be there, and Esnativa was the company that would take me.

I got in touch with Agus and we quickly started shaping the trip. I booked the volcano ski week and stayed open to his suggestions for a second week of mountain skiing in Chile.

Part 03

Week one: the volcanoes of the Araucanía

I arrived in Chile at the end of September and, after a few days exploring the coast on my own, met Esnativa's guides, Miguel and Vicky, at Temuco airport. From there we drove to our first lodge, at the foot of the volcanoes we would climb in the following days. Even with spring just around the corner, the conditions were exceptional and there was still plenty of snow on the mountains.

The lodge in Malalcahuello, where we stayed the first nights, is a fantastic place to rest and recover in a dreamlike setting, with spacious, cozy rooms and every comfort.

The volcano program was perfect. A gentle ski touring day with a visit to a Mapuche cabin, and the climb of Lonquimay from the Corralco ski area, were wonderful.

Part 04

When the weather said no

Unfortunately, on another day bad weather kept us from climbing Llaima. Our guides organized an alternative: a visit to hot springs in the Cañón del Blanco, where we bathed and walked through one of the magnificent, ancient forests of the Araucanía.

Since we hadn't skied that day, the guides added a stop on our travel day to Pucón to climb Sollipulli volcano and see its huge, ice-filled crater.

Part 05

Pucón, Quetrupillán and Villarrica

Our stay in Pucón couldn't have been better. The hotel is in a quiet area close to the center, shops and restaurants. From there we skied Quetrupillán volcano and the famous Villarrica.

Jon Brizuela and his Esnativa guide on a volcano summit in the Araucanía region of Chile — Jon (right) with his guide on a volcano summit in the Araucanía.

Throughout the week I felt completely looked after by Miguel and Vicky, two professional local guides who made the trip unforgettable. They brought knowledge, safety and good humor at every moment, took care of everything I needed and made sure I never lacked anything. I have nothing but gratitude for them.

Part 06

Week two: Santiago powder with a private guide

On top of the volcano adventure, I asked Esnativa to organize a private guided week. That is what turned my trip into something I still can't find the words to describe.

Because of the heavy snowfall around Santiago, Agus suggested I fly from Temuco to Santiago and head up to Farellones, where I would meet my new guide, Chopo Díaz. I didn't know it yet, but from that moment my life as a skier and mountain lover would change forever. Thank you, Chopo.

I arrived at a beautiful, newly built lodge with a private room, breakfast and dinner, where I stayed comfortably for four nights. I enjoyed three days of guided skiing at La Parva, El Colorado and Valle Nevado in unbeatable snow conditions. My guide's local knowledge meant I learned the terrain quickly and enjoyed every meter I skied.

I also had one more ski touring day with Agus, who came up from Santiago to join us on a climb of Cerro La Parva, 4,047 meters high, where we skied its steep faces twice. Once again, the planning, safety and experience of the Esnativa team made my time there unforgettable.

Jon Brizuela holding the Cerro La Parva summit sign, 4,047 meters, above Santiago — On the summit of Cerro La Parva, 4,047 m, above Farellones.

Part 07

The final days: Las Cuevas and Penitentes

Editor's note: this part of the trip was in Las Cuevas and Penitentes, on the Argentine side of the border, just over the pass from Portillo.

For the last four days of my trip, Esnativa suggested I travel with Chopo to the Chile–Argentina border, to a wild area with the best freeride descents of my life: ski touring, a day of cat skiing and endless runs down impressive, desert-like mountains, with the best guide anyone could imagine.

Jon Brizuela and the crew inside a snowcat on a cat skiing day — Cat skiing day: Jon (left) with the crew.

Jon Brizuela skiing a narrow rock couloir in the Andes — Jon in a narrow couloir during the final days of the trip.

We skied hard until the very last day. So hard that I didn't even have time to buy presents for my family and friends!

Once again, I want to thank the whole Esnativa team for making my trip an unforgettable adventure, far beyond my initial expectations. Thank you for listening to me and taking care of my needs, and for making the right decisions quickly, adapting my trip to the weather at every moment. Thank you to the guides for their care, professionalism and good humor.

Without a doubt, I would travel with Esnativa again, and I would recommend that every skier who loves the mountains join one of their trips or let the team design their ski adventure in Chile.

A note: it pays to arrive in good physical shape so you can enjoy every second of the experience. ;)

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you still ski Chile's volcanoes in late September?

Yes. Late September and October are the classic window for ski touring the volcanoes of the Araucanía region, with spring snow and longer days. Jon skied Lonquimay, Villarrica and Quetrupillán at the end of September. Read more in our volcano ski touring guide.

What happens if the weather stops a volcano day?

The guides change the plan. On Jon's trip, a storm ruled out Llaima, so the group visited hot springs in the Cañón del Blanco and an ancient Araucanía forest, then added a stop to tour Sollipulli volcano on the way to Pucón.

Can I combine the volcanoes with skiing near Santiago?

Yes. After the volcano week, Jon flew from Temuco to Santiago and spent four nights in Farellones, skiing La Parva, El Colorado and Valle Nevado with a private guide. We can build the same combination as a tailor-made trip.

Can I add a private guided week to a group trip?

Yes. We design private extensions around snow conditions, your level and your goals, before or after any of our group trips. For a single day, see our private ski guide in Chile.

Where can you ski near the Chile–Argentina border from Santiago?

Jon spent his last four days in Las Cuevas and Penitentes, on the Argentine side of the pass beyond Portillo, with ski touring, a day of cat skiing and long freeride descents in wild, desert-like mountains. We can add this zone to a tailor-made trip, depending on conditions and the border crossing.

How fit do I need to be for a trip like this?

Fit enough for several touring days in a row. As Jon puts it, it pays to arrive in good physical shape so you can enjoy every second. See What Level Do You Need for Backcountry Skiing in the Andes?